Reviews Of the Guard House Inn

Main Line Times
Aug 21-27, 2003

Main Line History
Breuers: a legend in and out of the kitchen

Gladwyne's Old Guard House Inn went up in a time when the Mississippi River served as America's westernmost border. Henry Hemboldt built the place around 1790 in the hope of making it a tavern. After being denied the legal right to sell drinks here, Hemboldt eventually jumped ship. He sold the broad, white structure to rifleman John Rawlins, the first in a line of owners either uninterested in or daunted by the task of delivering the building back to its first intended use -as a spot to come in out of the cold, and drink.

By the 1940s, ale made an appearance at the Inn and has never gone away, although today's bartender, Joe Belza, makes any pretty colored drink you could think of, and just got a big award from Philadelphia Magazine for making the best classic martini around. The Guard House has been a restaurant and bar now 54 years, the last 24 under the proprietorship of Albert Breuers.. the German chef responsible for elevating it to gourmet status.

Everyone in the village of Gladwyne probably knows a little about the Guard House, since it's right in the center of town. At the very least, they know about the the window boxes lining the porch. Each box is filled with brazenly pert annuals in lavender and pink. If Albert's not watering the flowers, he's standing next to them talking to somebody -maybe a tycoon, maybe a vendor in a dark van who's just come by with fish. People like to talk to Albert Breuers, and he likes to talk to them.

Along with socializing, what Albert really knows how to do is to feed someone, and teach others how to work bracingly hard, in the struggle to make intimate food emerge from a commercial kitchen. Young cooks in the restaurant business who have worked with him in the past, or still do, speak about Breuers with a strangely uniform and absolute reverence. John Woffert, part owner and head chef of Wayne's Wooden Iron, left the Guard House 10 years ago, yet hasn't quite let go. When asked about Breuers, he replies, "I think about Albert every day. After my father, he's been the most important influence in my life."

The Guard House has been receiving "best restaurant on the Main Line" awards for several years now. Stories detailing the old money character of the Inn's clientele are legend, and true only in part, since lately a younger crowd comes in, too. Once people sit down, though, it's the food that really matters, The menu's entree section consists of succulent dishes that have stood the test of time -roasted rack of Iamb, filet mignon, lobster, Dover sole. Yet a bit of modernity peeks through with the accompaniments and appetizers. Crab cakes are served with red curry sauce, and the wild mushroom spring rolls with soy glaze, A list of specials, typed alongside the regular entrees, includes dishes Albert brought here from his homeland, standards like wienerschnitzel, schweinepfeffer and sweet- breads. On any given night, Breuers can be seen moving, like the platters, between the kitchen and the snug, old rooms, while people dine. Seeing him adds flavor to the food.

In 1962, after graduating at the top of his class from a three-year apprenticeship program in Germany, Albert Breuers traveled to America, landing in New York City.

He eventually settled at Gladwyne's Guard House Inn.

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For reservations, takeout orders, catering or banquet information, call (610) 649-9708.