The Old Guard House Inn, rated best Restaurant on the Philadelphia Main Line.
The Old Guard House Inn, rated best Restaurant on the Philadelphia Main Line.
The Old Guard House Inn, rated best Restaurant on the Philadelphia Main Line.

Reviews Of the Guard House Inn

 

Main Line Today ranks Frank Miller of the Old Guardhouse Inn Best Chef on Philadelphia's Main Line.
Best Chef 
Frank Miller of the Old Guardhouse Inn

Main Line Today ranks Frank Miller of the Old Guardhouse Inn Best Chef on Philadelphia's Main Line.
 

Best restaurant overall Readers:
The loyalty of the clientele at The Old Guard House Inn in Gladwyne speaks volumes about the excellence of fare such as classic Dover sole-the long-time best- seller-and servers who are politely formal but never stuffy.

Picture of The Old Guard House Inn, rated best Restaurant on the Philadelphia Main Line.

On a late Monday morning, the kitchen gang at The Old Guard House Inn is icing down perforated pans of Iamb chops and shrimp so that they can power wash the walk-in refrigerator. Right in there with the crew is Frank Miller, who proves that a great chef isn't some prima donna creative force who spends most of his night schmoozing with admirers tableside, but one who likes to work.

Miller, 37, has worked at the Old Guard House for 13 years. He sojourned a short time in Lake Tahoe after graduating from the prestigious culinary program at Rhode Island's Johnson and Whales University in 1986, then returned home to Rosemont, where he answered a newspaper ad for help at The Old Guard House. "I knew right away that (owner Albert Breuers) was a really good guy," Miller says. "He kind of took me under his wing."

Miller left to work at Restaurant Taquet for a short time, but soon found himself back at The Old Guard House when Breuers offered to make him chef. The pair promptly set about reducing the offering of menu items to a manageable number, then perfecting them all.

"We have a ton of return clientele," Miller says. "Some of that reflects the fact that Albert's always here. We work well together. That's a good bit of the reason why I'm still here. It's hard to find a good owner He's not an absentee guy. He's always interested in everything." And Miller himself, after prepping meals six afternoons a week, works on the line six nights. He's involved in every aspect of food production, from locating and purchasing ingredients to setting finished plates in the pass-through window for pickup by servers.

Miller says there's no magic to making great menus. Work with what's Main Line Today ranks Frank Miller of the Old Guardhouse Inn Best Chef on Philadelphia's Main Line.
fresh, work with what's in season, work with what you can make from scratch, and always give the customer the benefit of the doubt. That means start with the best veal for the veal Oscar, prepare it with the freshest asparagus available, top it with lump crabmeat when crabs are at the peak of their size and abundance and, if you promise an 8-ounce veal cutlet, don't serve a gram less. Stick with the old favorites done well-sauerbraten in winter, duck in the spring and soft shell crabs in summer. When possible, give things a twist. Instead of sautéing the veal picatta with a squeeze of lemon juice, for instance, prepare it with preserved lemon.
And one more thing: Surround yourself with good people. "If you treat everybody with respect, they'll make the extra effort," Miller says, "and they'll
have fun." -Mark Nardone

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For reservations, takeout orders, catering or banquet information, call (610) 649-9708.