Reviews Of the Guard House Inn
Best Restaurant on the Main Line A review from Main Line Today - 2001
Such modesty. His son/manager Marc complied to the query with less restraint. "We're consistent," he stated, "and we're always friendly, always smiling. Then, of course, there's the food..."
Ah, yes. The food, indeed. My anticipation had already been seriously sparked by the menu and Breuers' conversation when a nice couple sitting next to us, Rich and Pam Merriman from Villanova, fanned it to a blaze with their positive comments. "We've been coming here for 20 years," they said. "The food is just marvelous every time! Try the Snapper Soup. It's exquisite!" I love Snapper, but had to take their word concerning its excellence as I had already
"I can't remember having a better bisque," my partner commented.
Me either.
My Hearts of Lettuce Salad was converted from unassuming to absolutely vundebar by the addition of the homemade Blue Cheese Dressing with more chunks of gusty Blue than could be imagined. The portion was enormous.
So, when's the last time you were in a restaurant which served Sautéed Infant Fern Fronds as the evening's vegetable'. My bet would be never. I've had them, but only because my property is solid with these spectacular perennials allowing me to access this very special treat every spring. Commercially, these babies come very dear; I couldn't believe Breuers was serving them. As for taste, they're very mild, crunchy (when prepared correctly) and somewhat distantly akin to asparagus in taste. In other words, they're individualistic. I can't imagine anyone not going wild over them.
A native of Germany, Breuers always offers an ethnic entree or two. Wienerschnitzel is one, which his clientele insist he keep on his menu for always.
He had sautéed two lightly breaded Veal Medallions to a golden brown, anointed them with lemon slices and bathed them in a lemon butter, veal stock reduction with (probably) a bit of white wine. They were a fork-tender, veal-lover's dream, served with mashed potatoes and the aforementioned ferns and teensy baby carrots. For dessert, try the decadent, sweetly crusty Crème Brulee with fresh berries, or if you can manage it, maybe the Guard House Coupe - vanilla ice cream, hot raspberry sauce and shaved chocolate.
Other dinner recommendations include the Carpaccio or Snails Champagne appetizers and the Dijon Crusted Roasted Rack of Lamb or Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes.
The Old Guard House continues to be a presence with a past to be reckoned with. It's essentially been an inn or hotel or ice cream parlor or confectionery since about 1800. It doesn't appear that much has been done to it. The Merriman's referred to it as "a quaint neighborhood restaurant with a lot of understated character." Marc Breuers added that, My dad's very proud of the Inn - he's put his heart and soul into it."
Factor in the food and service and you've got the secret to the Old Guard House's success. Dinner entrees range from $21 $30.
Changing of the Guard Philadelphia Magazine - 2002
t the bar of the Guard House, the tavern in the center of Gladwyne, under the wagon-wheel lights and the deer heads mounted on the lacquered log walls, two of the place's regulars sat-pink-faced fellows nearing 8o, in brass-buttoned blazers and colorful turtlenecks, propped carefully on their stools. But on either side of these Manhattan-sipping gents were: A) a group of 30-ish women having a girls-only birthday celebration, each with a perfect blow-out and minimally chic makeup, dressed in an assortment of Chlỏe blouses, Prada mules and four-carat rings; and B) two Armani-clad 4o-ish couples ordering an expensive bottle of cabernet and discussing their yoga instructor.
Could it be that in a time of uncertainty the Guard House, with its lamb chops and whiskey sours, its dark-beamed rooms and pink carnations on the tables, has suddenly become cool? Over the past 20 years, this white-stuccoed 2oo-year-old bastion of tradition-once a raucous I9th-entury pub called the War Office, later the genteel Merion Square Hotel-has always made money, says its thick-accented German-born chef, Albert Breuers. He has owned the former hotel and tavern since 1979, and he admits, "When I first opened, it vas mainly the blue-hair. Now; the young couples who grew up coming here vith their parents, they get married and come back."
That's how we know the '90s are over. Back then, younger Main Liners migrated downtown, or to more up-to-date spots like Toscana and Savona. But even before September 11th, the comforts of this creaky spot had become a not-very-well-kept secret for a more diverse crowd.
"Everybody goes there," trumpets hairstylist Maurice Tannenbaum, who owns OMG Salon in the old Gladwyne general store, some 10 feet away from the Guard House across Righters Mill Road. "The WASP women have symmetric hair and Chanel suits, and the Jewish women have on their jeans and diamonds." Tannenbaum, his partner; John Giacomo, and their seven-year-old daughter; Hannah, live a mile away and eat here at least twice a week, chatting away across tables with doddering older couples and hanging out in the kitchen with Breuers. Needless to say, the Tannenbaum-Giacomo clan isn't exactly a typical WASP nuclear unit. But Gladwyne isn't typical, either. It's the last real oddball village on the Main Line, and its tavern is an antidote to the glut of mall restaurants at King of Prussia (10 minutes away) or the Stephen Starr restaurants of Old City. "I don't think there's another place like the Guard House," raves Tannenbaum. It's so subtle." And so authentic.
| 'In the fall and winter, it
calls your name," says advertising executive Iliana Strauss, who
lives with Pep Boy husband Ben in Haverford and dines here
regularly with friends. (She's noticed a budding singles scene of
40-something divorcees sipping chardonnay here, too.) "They rend
to put the flashy people in front, and it's wonderful to see the
blue-hairs getting their seats in the back." In those flashier
seats, you'll see the likes of Larry Brown and his wife, Shelly;
Chris and Tory Burch; and Kip and PR exec Becky Fawcett. At the GH, a glass of house wine isn't $11; it's $6.75. And while you couldn't call the food a bargain, $17 for a huge, delicious plate of veal-and-beef meatloaf, or even $29 for the signature seared venison, is cheaper than, say, Le Mas Perrier. So you don't feel you're getting gouged, and the fireplace in the small front dining room glows. Perhaps the young and Gucci-clad are drawn here by a sincere desire to sit in one of five tiny, warm dining rooms and eat meat. Or maybe it's a sense of irony that pulls them, a sociological urge to study aging WASPs in their natural environment. "I think young couples love the old-money feeling of it," observes Tannenbaum. |
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An Old Main Line Reliable Main Line Times - 2002
A new mecca for fine food? Yet one more big name restaurant on the dining scene? Not at all. Those of you who dine about, and especially the legions of you who are "regulars" at The Guard House, need no reminder about its pleasing fare.
Still, a visit was long overdue. The ambiance of the cozy old inn with its yesteryear decor is at once familiar and comforting. And the tales those half timbered walls could tell! However, if owner/chef Albert Breuers stops by your table on his nightly rounds, you'll hear some good ones. Ever the affable host and longtime resident of the community, Breuers is a rarity among restaurateurs and more eager to talk about skiing, world events, tennis or finance than his own business.
The dinner menu is a two-tier one: The top half consists of currently fashionable entrees, the second tier of dishes that reveal the chef's Germanic leanings (with hefty calorie counts). Thus you may sup on penne pasta with lump crabmeat and broccoli rabe or age-old German classics such as Wienerschnitzel (veal) Schweinepfeffer (pork) and sweetbreads Hilde. If you're watching your cholesterol, don't even ask,
Grilled salmon, a generous and moist cut, was an au courant entree ($24). It was crowned with a lush lobster crème and lingonberries. The silken veal mentioned was a delicate version of veal Piccata ($27). Its sautéed slivers of melt-in-the-mouth veal were topped with a large ruff of wonderfully fresh, hot spinach, all seated in a drizzle of lemony butter with capers. Each plate bore garden beans and carrots and one of Breuers' signature accompaniments of scalloped potatoes. This one was a perfect small mold of the elegantly prepared tuber.
Openers at the table were the Carpaccio and a nightly salad special bearing spring greens with the slimmest spears of fresh asparagus, heady Nicoise olives and a sprinkling of feta cheese. Delectable to the last sheen of vinaigrette. The Carpaccio ($8.75) bore noting: The tissue sheer strips of filet of beef formed a perfect plate-size circle. Over the traditional infusion of olive oil with capers, a dusting of Parmesan turned the presentation into a mini pizza. Other beginnings (from $7.50 to $12.50): Applewood home smoked salmon; Prince Edward Island mussels steamed in garlicky white wine; Breuers' always super country pate; snails champagne with toasted hazelnuts; jumbo shrimp cocktail; and one definitely for the next visit, wild mushroom spring roll.
There were other salads and soups, such as the special of sweet red pepper puree. Among entree selections were jumbo lump crab cakes with red curry sauce ($27), prosciutto wrapped and baked halibut ($25), rack of lamb ($29) and both Black Angus sirloin steak and filet mignon ($28 and $29).
Desserts have long been a delight here. Were they even more exceptional now that a Four Seasons alumna is in charge? The passion fruit frozen soufflé was a superb crown of ladyfingers and an ethereal frozen cream; dark chocolate mousse was "one of the best!" said the dining partner. Fruits, a Marjolaine of hazelnut cake, ganache, praline and rum cream, a coupe with hot raspberry sauce, chocolate torte, crème Brûlée, warm apple tart - they are all there ($6.50).
The Guard House is open nightly for dinner except Sunday. Adequate parking here and about, major cards, cozy bar, 10 percent discount on takeout, but alas, no outdoor summer cafe' as in many years past.
By BARBARA ALLYN
For reservations, takeout orders, catering or banquet information, call (610) 649-9708.